The Catskills Diaries

My evolving guide to dining, hotels, and activities in one of my favorite places.

There is nothing better than driving 2-3 hours out of the city and touching grass in the Catskills. Andrew and I have made it a bit of a fall tradition that I very much look forward to each year. Although I am no Catskills expert, I figured I would start a base guide to all my favorite places and add on as I go. Manifesting that one day I will have a cozy cabin upstate.

Dining!

NYC has the best food scene in the world (or so I think) so it might be shocking to hear that the little mountain towns in Hudson Valley ALSO have some of the most incredible restaurants. Of course some chefs from NYC have opened places here but in general the food scene is unmatched to any other rural or suburban areas I’ve frequented. Let’s dive in, shall weeeeeeeeeee!

Stissing House

I’m not sure there is a more perfect restaurant out there. Completely candlelit with a giant mound of butter when you first walk in. I recommend coming here when it’s chilly out and ordering something comforting like their rabbit pie (a fancy chicken pot pie essentially) accompanied by a glass of red. Don’t sleep on the coconut cake either. Do note that the menu changes seasonally and, in some cases, daily.

This is the sister restaurant to King in NYC which is on the New York Times top 100 list. I thought King was good but Stissing House definitely takes the (coconut) cake here. Pun obviously intended — please get it for dessert. Sorry I’m so corny.

Location: Pine Plains, NY

Price Point: −$

What to order: Dayboat scallops, Leeks, Rabbit Pie, Coconut Cake

Harana Market

A little Filipino market with a restaurant attached to it with some of the kindest, most down-to-earth people running it. I’m not super familiar with Filipino cuisine so I kind of just went and ordered a wide variety. Every single thing was better than the last and I left sooo full and sooo satisfied. Between the tofu sisig, garlic rice, and lumpia, I was in heaven. This is a wonderful spot for lunch and I need them to open a location in NYC. Please. I’m begging.

Location: Accord, NY

Price Point: $-$$

What to order: Lumpia, Tofu Sisig (WITH GARLIC RICE IMPORTANT), Fried Chicken, Beef Soup, Cassava Cake

Casa Susanna

The most perfect Mexican restaurant I have ever come across. Located on the Camptown property and is easy to miss. We asked the waiter what we should order and he told us with extreme confidence that anything would be good. I will say the scallops were not hitting for me so Mr. Waiter was incorrect BUT everything else was excellent. The mole and smoked goat birria are essential. I wouldn't miss this spot if you are in the area.

Location: Leeds, NY

Price Point: −$

What to order: Tlacoyo, Huarache, Duck Leg Mole, Goat Birria, Chocolate Tamale

Cafe Mutton

A funky but fun little restaurant right in Hudson that is bound to impress. I wouldn’t head here if you are picky as they tend to utilize all parts of the animal in their dishes like the Lamb’s head porridge. For sweets, they make a cavity inducing sticky bun that I had to unhinge my jaw to bite. They are mainly breakfast and lunch, however I do believe they do dinner once a week.

Location: Hudson, NY

Price Point: $-$$

What to order: Menu changes very frequently so order whatever tickles your fancy!

Bread Alone

I love this bakery!!!!!! They make everything there from the pastries to the wood fired bagels. They also make incredible pies. I actually spent the day working from this cafe and it was honestly a great spot to hunker down in. If you live in NYC you may recognize them from the Union Sq Farmers Market.

Location: Rhinebeck, NY

Price Point: $

What to Order: All of it

Phonecia Diner

An absolute must hit. The most perfect diner known for its pancakes. While I think there are a lot of items on the menu that should not be missed, their mac n cheese and meatloaf are a must. Be prepared to wait a little while for a table — it typically moves fast.

Location: Phoenicia, NY

Price Point: $-$$

What to order: Meatloaf, Mac n Cheese, Pancakes

Silvia

Silivia is thatttttt girl. I feel like this is an ideal spot to bring your pals! My friends would eat this place up. The wood fire pita and whipped butter along with the mushroom pate is the best way to start your meal. The schnitzel is a strong contender but I do think you can skip the bouillabaisse.

Location: Woodstock, NY

Price Point: $$−$$$

What to order: Pita, Mushroom Pate, Schnitzel

Lil Deb’s Oasis

Right next to Cafe Mutton you will find this gem. Cannot say the words hidden because you will have a wait. It's an eclectic restaurant with an eclectic menu. You’ll find drinks named the Garden Orgy and items like half a Cornish Hen. The cuisine is pan-latin and we sat at the counter overlooking the kitchen. A bit chaotic but a whole lot of funnnnnnn if that’s the vibe you’re going for. The coconut herb sauce the mussels come in… I could literally drink a gallon of it.

Location: Hudson, NY

Price Point: $$

What to order: Empanada, Mussels (must order), Whole Fish, stuffed peppers, Chocolate Cake, Harvest Moon Cocktail

Quinnies

UMMM the best sandwich ever here?????? I think about the ‘Not a Bahn Mi’ once a week. It’s a vegetarian sammy with a range of ingredients like soy glazed sweet potato, pickled veg, and spicy mayo. This sandwich could convert a carnivore to a vegetarian. The chicken salad was also great but the Bahn Mi just could not be beat babbbyyyy.

Location: Hudson, NY

Price Point: $

What to order: Not a Bahn Mi, Chicken Salad

Accommodations!

Piaule

Our favorite place to stay but definitely not affordable by any means so it’s quite the treat when we go. They are individual ‘cabins’. The lobby and dining area are straight out of a magazine and the spa included makes it worth the bill at the end. The pool literally overlooks the mountains along with a steam room, cold plunge, and sauna. Also I love how close in proximity it is to a majority of the spots I listed above.

The Gables of Rhinebeck Inn

The cutest lil’ Inn! I think Andrew and I were the youngest people there by 30 years but honestly, it was quite alright. I haven’t stayed at many inns in my days but the room was spacious and our bed was super comfy. They had little pastries and coffee in the morning. It was also walking distance from the Main Street in Rhinebeck!

Things to do!

Angry Orchard Cider House - Some people don’t realize that the makers of Angry Orchard have a legit orchard that you can visit. I am some people. I went during the fall so that they’d be cranking out sugary, cinnamony, hot donuts that I could enjoy with a crisp cider. They have tours and a lovely outdoor yard where there is sometimes live music. Honestly the perfect spot for a fam hangout on a nice day.

Subversive Brewery - A lovelyyyyy brewery thats literally making their own malt??? The beers are excellent, they have a solid outdoor seating area, and DON’T SLEEP ON THE FOOD!!!!! They served me the best chicken noodle soup I have ever consumed.

Catskill Main Street - The town of Catskill is quite cute! They have a Main Street that is filled with antique stores, boutiques, and sweet shops. You should definitely stop into Catskill Chocolate Co. and pick up some goodies. They also have ice cream if you’re in the mood for that.

Hike Kaaterskill or Overlook Mountain trail - Both are great hikes. Kaaterskill is a bit more mild and you get to see a big ass waterfall. Overlook I was about to pass out at some points but there’s an abandoned hotel which is really cool and a lookout tower with insane views.

Samuel’s Sweet Shop - Paul Rudd owns a candy store in Rhinebeck anddddddd I think you should at least stop in. You probably don’t need to order a pound of the assorted chocolates they have like I MAY have done. It’s extremely tempting and lowkey was traumatizing when I saw the total but it’s fine.

Explore Hudson - I think my favorite town in Hudson Valley is Hudson? Idk for certain but I do love this quaint cutie place. On Saturdays they have a great farmers market that I’d highly recommend if the timing works for you. They have stellar restaurants and plenty of antique shops to sift through. Culture cream also has delish ice cream.

Rose Hill Farm- Located in Red Hook, NY the cider house here is absolutely STUNNNIN. The ciders are honestly some of the best I have ever had. They have couches and games all around so a really nice place to spend an afternoon.

Explore Kingston- This town makes me feel like I am in Hocus Pocus. I would take 20 mins to explore the charm of this quaint little place. Stop into Rough Draft for a coffee (or a chai in my case) and pick up a book to read.

ENJOYYYYYYYYYYYY xoxoxoxo